Sunday 16 June 2013

WHY IT TAKES 30 MINUTES TO BUY A CHICKEN


Don't you dare choose me!
I am old enough to remember the days before supermarkets, when Sainsbury was a deli store and when in the small shops you used to have to queue to get served and the whole experience was as much about social interaction as it was about shopping.  These were the days when we didn’t have a fridge and mum used to go shopping almost every day.   The shopkeepers often used to have a wicked sense of humour and I remember during bob-a-job week going in as a young cub to buy ice cream for someone and being asked if I wanted the ice cream hot or cold!   It foxed me for a while!

What many of us Brits love about France is that it is like going back in time in many respects.  Funnily enough what a lot of the French youngsters love about London is that it is so modern and always changing.   In England, supermarkets changed everything and even small shops nowadays tend to be reasonably impersonal.    En France they have the grand surfaces or big supermarkets but many of the small stores have remained the same.   Buy direct from the producer and it is another level again and this is why it can take 30 minutes to buy a chicken!

Outside the farmshop with our dogs
In Veaugues we are lucky enough to have a small poultry farmer who sells his poulets (chickens) and pintades (guinea fowl) direct to the locals. Now one thing that surprises us Brits about France is that they don’t eat nearly as much chicken as in the UK.  In the UK chicken has almost become the norm and is regarded as the healthy option, us rosbifs (“roast beefs”) eat hardly any beef any more.   The French eat far more beef,  and chicken is a special occasion meal and even in the supermarkets you don’t see chiller shelves full of factory-produced chickens.   I remember when it was like this in England and we had chicken perhaps just once a year at Easter.  In the nineteen fifties chicken was really expensive and a real luxury item; lamb, pork and beef were much more affordable.  I used to have an austerity cookbook dating back to that time and there were no chicken recipes at all in it.   Then along came Bernard Matthews……….
M .Joulain prepares our pintade

Anyway, back to current day Veaugues.  Having seen his sign we decided to ring  Monsieur Joulain and see if we could come along immediately and buy a chicken; the usual modern wish of instant gratification.   M. Joulain protested that as he didn’t know us, how could he possibly know what type of chicken we wanted; there are different types of chicken!!   Eventually, we persuaded him that we should come along and meet him and tell him our needs; ie a chicken to roast!
This we did and eventually a chicken was selected and given to us nicely hand wrapped.  Then came the next surprise; no payment was expected, the first purchase was free.  Meanwhile Monsieur Joulain had been practising his English on us and conversation had flowed for a considerable time.  Hence it can take at least 30 minutes to buy a chicken.

Our pintade complete with head
At home we found another surprise awaiting us, the chicken still had its head on! Definitely not what you would find in a supermarket.   It reminded me of when I was in China at the Beijing duck restaurant and a whole duck was served to us in the various courses and I do mean the whole duck – eventually the head was served as a special treat to the oldest person on the table – luckily I was quite young then.



Jane with M.Joulain
The next time we visited Monsieur Poulain, we had to pay of course,  and we chose to try one of his pintades, something relatively rare in the UK.  Again the transaction took over 30 minutes but really added to the joy of the day.  I got a chance to practise my French and Monsieur Joulain got a chance to practise his English.  Great old-fashioned service.  You pay for it as the poultry isn’t cheap but at least you know the chicken has had a healthy life and has not been reared in a Bernard Matthews type factory farm.  The chicken has more texture and more flavour, something I’m not sure that most Brits would appreciate!   Vive la difference, as us Brits might say.

It is certainly great fun living a different lifestyle.  We don't don't exactly live in a city in England either but going to a farm shop around where we live is not nearly such a fun experience.  In England everything is a rush.



A very Pop Larkin scene near Mr Joulain's farm


Saturday 15 June 2013

A RACE UP BETWEEN THE VINES


Although I have been to many international motor races in my time including World Championship Grand Prix and endurance races, I am not particularly fond of crowds and thus the smaller events are the ones I most favour.   Thus when we were in Veaugues earlier this month, I had no hesitation to go and watch the Hill Climb that winds up through the vineyards from Menetreol-sous-Sancerre towards the hill top town of Sancerre itself. It was the 40th running of the Course de Cote de Sancerre and it happened on Sunday 2nd June.  What a beautiful setting with all of the vineyards surrounding the course and with the hill town of Sancerre visible from most spectator positions. The length of the course is over 1,700 metre and the faster cars complete it in under 50 seconds whilst the slower cars struggle to get under1 minute 20 seconds. The hill climb is on public roads, which is a great tradition in France,  and on a normal day you can drive up it yourself - it is the D920 if you want to have a go.  About 120 cars took part.  Each car had three timed runs of which the fastest counts towards the final result. The winner was Serge Thomas in a Norma M20F but he was too fast for my camera!    But there were a great variety of other cars that I did manage to capture as shown below:
A Ligier JS49 sports racing car sweeps through the third corner 
Another sports car exiting the second corner
The vines were much in evidence up the whole course

The third corner again

Alain Francais in his beautiful Alpine A110

Jean-Benoit Bleyra applies opposite lock in his Citroen AX Sport

Fabien Dorange in his Alfa Romeo 75

One of the fast Simca Rallyes

The Alpine 310 powers through the vines

The backdrop is beautiful

Not all cars made it up the hill under their own steam

A Porsche heads up an avenue of beautiful trees

Manuel Santos in his Alpine A110 

Benoit Sabard harries his Peugeot 106 516 through a corner

Luis Tuero lifts a wheel in his Renault Clio Williams 
Rene-Herve Ruault in his Lotus Coupe

David Alexandre was twelfth in his BAM 111

Mickael Content in his Martini Mk 78

Third placed Gael Boisson in his Dallara 399

A Caterham Seven blasts up the hill

Even the French drive on the left sometimes!

A PRM FunBoost

One of the many sports cars

Jean-Pierre Picault in his Barquette JPS FCM

Another Martini speeds through the vines

Christian Martin in his Martini Mk81 just missed out on the top ten

Bruno Beyer races up the hill in his venerable March 803

An F2000 Group car

All the cars were breaking the speed limit!

ALL THE FUN OF THE FOIRE


By a nice coincidence (!) we just happened to be in Sancerre for the 87th Foire aux Vins de Sancerre.   It was held in the lovely location of the Caves de la Mignonne which are literally under Sancerre.  Being a weekend event one can visit over the two days and perhaps do white wines one day and red wines the next.   Most of the communes and hameau that grow and make Sancerre are represented; I didn’t notice Menetreol-Sous-Sancerre being represented but all the others certainly were.  During two days we tasted about sixty wines out of the four hundred plus on offer and the notes I made on the day are appended below. 

VEAUGUES & SURROUNDING VILLAGES

Domaine Brosses – Secrets Des Tronchbochards – Blanc 2012.
A Veaugues Wine
A light minerally wine with good levels of acidity for matching with food.

Domaine De Champarlay – David and Luc Girard – Humbligny – Blanc 2012
This wine still tastes very green but definitely OK.

Laurent et Maxime Mitri – Jalognes – Blanc 201?
Light and mineral.  Great value Sancerre.

Domaine Brosses – Secrets des Tronchbochards – Rouge 2011
Nice fruit.
Jane posing at the Veaugues and Thauvenay stand

CREZANCY-EN-SANCERRE

Domaine De La Voltonnerie – Jack Pinson – La Bourg Crezancy – Blanc 2012
Very nice, subtle, mineral.

Cave Laetitia Ducroux – Reigny Crezancy – Blanc 2012
More fruit less mineral than the previous wine.

Eric Louis
THAUVENAY

Eric Louis – La Pauline – Blanc 2012
Very nice, perhaps a little thin.  Jane liked this one.

Eric Louis – Cuvee Pauline – Vinifee en futs de Chene – Blanc 2011
Our first oaked wine of the day, it tasted very oaked.  Apparently they use acacia.
Serge Laloue – Non Flitre – Rouge 2011
I am afraid I didn’t really like this one.

Eric Louis – Cuvee Pauline – Vinifee en futs de Chene – Rouge 2011
Very interesting!  Jane hated it!

Domaine Curot – Rouge 2010
Not very special.

VINON

Domaine Le Clef du Recit – Anthony Girard – Blanc 2012
Mineral with undertones of goats cheese.  Nice.

Domaine Marc Guerin – Bannon – Blanc 2011
Tastes older (as it indeed was) with mushroom notes.

Domaine Marc Guerin – Bannon – Rouge 2011
Nice light wine with good fruit and no oak.
Wines on the Saint-Satur stand

SAINT-SATUR

Domaine Les Chaumes – Jean-Jaques Bardin – Blanc 2012
For me this tasted thin and buttery and I didn’t really like it.

Laporte – Le Rochoy - Silex– Blanc 2012
Very mineral, almost effervescent with a nice creaminess on the tongue.  A lovely wine to demonstrate that not all Sancerre are the same.

SANCERRE

Domaine Vacheron – Les Romains – Blanc 2011
A big name in Sancerre.  Rather thin at the start but a long after taste and very balanced.

Domaine Vacheron – Traditionnel – Blanc 2012
A little fatty but similar to 2011, only greener.
Claire Bonnard

Domaine Bonnard – Blanc 2012
Big wine, big taste of mineral balance with fruit. Really, really good wine!  Not a producer I knew before but one that I will remember.

Domaine Bonnard – Rouge 2010
Some cherry.  Not bad.
Roland Tissier

Roland Tissier et Fils – Partly oaked Blanc 2011
Nice balance of oak but little fruit.

Roalnd Tissier et Fls – Cuvee St Benoit – Oaked white 2010
Very nice.

AMIGNY

Domaine Cherrier et Fils – Blanc 2012
Big minerally taste, lacks some body but has long aftertaste.

ST GEMME EN SANCERROIS

Domaine Olivier Fouchon – Blanc 2012
Lacks aroma but nice taste.  An OK wine.

Jerome Gordon Les Fouchards– Elegance – Blanc 201?
I think my taste buds are getting tired!  My notes just say “Not bad”.

Domaine De Rome – Herve Baudry – Blanc 201?
Very traditional, very nice, good aftertaste.

Domaine De Rome – Herve Baudry – Rouge 201?
OK, very typical.

Domaine des Sardelles Reverdy Freres– Rose 2012
Nothing special.
Jane at the St Gemme stand

MAIMBRAY

Domaine du P’tit Roy – Pierre et Alain Dezat – Blanc 201?
Very nice, good depth but little aftertaste.

Michel Vattan – Calcaire – Blanc 2011
More fruity than the previous wine.  Jane finds it acidic.

Michel Vattan – Argile – Blanc 2011
Jane finds it “bubblegum!”  I prefer this to the previous wine as it is more mineral for me.

Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy – Les Angislots – Blanc 2011
Tres Gras, mineral, bouquet is good, very nice!  Made from Vielles Vignes.

BUE

Vincent Pinard – Pinot Noir – Rouge 2011
Very good for a Sancerre red.

Bailly-Reverdy, La Mercy-Dieu – Blanc 201?
Very nice.  Gooseberry and floral but not one of my favourites.


CHAVIGNOL

Gilles Lesimple – Blanc 2012
It has a bite! Very good value at €7.  Strong, not everyone would like it, but Jane does!

Domaine Andre Neveu – Le Grand Fricambault Silex – Blanc 2012
Very mineral but gras.

Henri Bourgeois – La Cote des Monts Damnes – Blanc 2011
This is normally one of my favourite wines but it doesn’t really do anything for me.   Perhaps, still a little young.

Claude et Florence Thomas – Les Aristides Vielles Vignes – Blanc 2011
Little bouquet but big taste.  One of my favourites.




The Henry Natter stand

A Sparkling Wine!
MONTIGNY

Henry Natter - L’Enchantement – Blanc 2011
Like all Henry Natter it is oaked.  Very good, floral but crisp and easy drinking.

Henry Natter – Classique -Rouge 2008
Earthy, dusty, not bad.

Henry Natter – Vielles Vignes – Blanc 201?
Equally nice.  Would be good with food.

Henry Natter – Classique – Rose  201?
Very dry and fresh.  Not a very big taste.

Henry Natter – Les Secrets d’Anaelle – Brut Sparkling Rose
Possibly the only sparkling wine made in Sancerre?  Very bubbly, dry but with sweetness from the fruit.  Definitely worth trying.

Henry Natter – Classique – Rouge 2009
Typical Sancerre Rouge.

VERDIGNY

Roger Reverdy Cadet et Fils – Domaine des Trois Noyes -Rouge 2011
Entirely aged in inox (stainless steel).  Easy drinking red.  I like it but it is not one for Jane.

Paul Prieur et Fils – Rouge 2011
Another typical Sancerre red.   Not too much oak.  Rather nice.  Some taste of the cellar but the oak is not too overpowering.

Roger Reverdy Cadet et Fils – Domaine des Trois Noyes - Blanc 2012
Amazing bouquet.  Floral and gooseberry.  Different to the others.  One to try.  Apparently the whites of Verdigny tend to be ready earlier than the other communes.

Fleuriet – Cave de la Petite Fontaine – Rouge 2010
100% en barrique.  Another one completely tasting of the cellar floor.

Jean-Marie Reverdy – Domaine de la Villaudiere – Rouge 2012
100% Inox.  Very good for a red aged entirely in steel.  Apparently this is from caillotte terroir.

Jean-Marie Reverdy – Domaine de la Villaudiere – Blanc 2012
Typical gooseberry floral smell but a bit thin.

Paul Pieur et fils – Rose 201?
Nice smell and taste.  Not too strong or too light.

Jean-Marie Reverdy – Rose 2012
Apparently this is made with a mixture of the two methods – pressing and saignee.  A big rose.  Similar to the great rose of Andre Dezat but perhaps a little thinner.

MENETOU-RATEL

Alain Lauverjat – Blanc 2012
Gooseberry.  OK.

Claude Roblin – Les Rossignols -Blanc 2011
More developed.

Alain Lauverjat – Rouge 2010
This is just Inox.  Very nice.

Claude Roblin – Rouge 2010
Inox – Jane liked this.

Les Cotes des Monts Damnes – Blanc 2011
From the slopes of Chavignol but vinified in Menetou-Ratel.  Very typical citrusy CDeMD.

SURY EN VAUX

Domaine des Tayaux – Paul et Jean-Marc Pastou – Blanc 2012
Very different.  Quite big and rustic but lacks finesse.

Claude Riffault – La Noue – Blanc 2009
A big wine. Too oaked for me but Jane liked it. 

Claude Riffault – La Noue – Rose 201?
Nice light rose with a cherry background.

Alain Gueneau – Rose 2012
An old favourite that I haven’t had for a number of years.  Nice cherry nose.  Not exceptional.

Michel Bedu – Les Rondeleaux – Rouge 2012
Nicely balance oak and fruit but light.

If you get a chance do come next year and enjoy all the fun of the foire.  All the vignerons are very friendly and there is no hard sell as there is in some foires.  In fact on most stands the wine was just for tasting and not for sale.  The entry is free but you pay €5 for a glass if you want to taste – great value and you end up with a little souvenir.

Other Loire wines like Quincy, Reuilly and Pouilly-Fume were also available but I didn’t try any of these.   The oyster stand was excellent and proved what a great match Sancerre is for seafood.
Oysters go well with Sancerre

We made a point of trying the wines of the vignerons who were actually on the stand.  Some stands such as Bue were quite crowded and not very chatty and thus we didn’t try too many.  We also wanted to visit all twelve of the Sancerre stands and try all of the different terroirs.  Some of our favourite wine makers such as Domaine de la Prieure and Andre Dezat we didn’t try as we know them so well.

Although notes like this from tasting sixty wines can be a guide there is nothing like drinking a bottle with a friend to really understand it.  Jane and myself blind tasted three Sancerres blind recently to see which we preferred.  We changed our minds as we went down the bottle and depending on whether we had them with food or not.  All good fun though!  Never take wine too seriously.